I said to Rowan “I hate mud.” He replied, “no you don’t, what you have is a mild dislike bordering on apathy.” Well I guess I better get used to it but I really don’t like walking in mud! You will be pleased to know I had a better sleep last night, not amazing but better. The camp site had picnic tables and a shelter, which was very handy. We ended up leaving fairly late it is amazing how fast time goes. We headed straight up a ridge line following a farmers fence, all the way to Dunn’s Bush. It was really pretty, most of the tracks are closed but one track is open for TA hikers. We then got out onto a road and did a little road walking. When we got to the next bush track you could see dirt bikes go through it regularly, which makes it incredibly uneven and muddy. We got about 100m in and found a spot for some food. It is only about 2km, but we are exhausted. 2kms of slow steep mud walking. Today was the first day that I have felt I didn’t want to go on. We made it to camp about 4pm. Which gave us heaps of light to set up and eat. Tomorrow is looking mostly downhill so I better prepare my blisters, I mean toes
I had a non existent sleep again, exhausted and frustrated. All I can hope for is that the moon is the cause of these sleepless nights. I get up to pee and I tell Rowan I am going to attempt to sleep some more. So we relax in the tent till 8am. We end up chatting to Pip for a few hours while having some breakfast and tea. We lay out all our gear and I attempt to remove as much mud as possible. There isn’t much sun but it seems to be enough to dry out most items. We finally get packed up and walk a kilometre into town and have some lunch. We had already decided we will only be walking a small distance along the Puhoi Track to Reminger Road, as there is a new council camp site there. It felt longer with a lot of up and downs, boots covered in mud through the farmland. The forests were beautiful but were very quiet I saw hardly any birds. The swing bridge near the end was covered with some debris from the floods a week ago but still good. The last 1km slog to the camp was the hardest. We got here with some light left in the sky, quickly pitching the tent. Then we pulled out clothes and had a wash with a cloth under a tap, wasn’t too bad. I set the inner tent up with all the gear while Rowan made us some soup. I think this will be the quietest camping spot so far. I have decided to try wearing my buff like a eye mask to see if it helps me sleep tonight.
We successfully stealth camped and woke up to rain in the night. We were so tired and lazy that we didn’t bother to pitch the tent properly, low and behold we had rain. Now I did check my bag but I didn’t look at my boots, which now had some lovely puddles inside of them. I also had barely any sleep, I am not sure why but it was rather noisy. On the brightside Rowan had water in his boots too so we both got to put our feet into soggy boots. We wandered over to a picnic table and had some breakfast, garlic pita breads with some salami. It was really dry and on the upside it repeated chronically throughout the day. We set of for Wenderholm Park knowing we had lots of time as we needed to wait for the tide. The weather was ho hum, with regular showers. We arrived at Wenderholm around 11am, made a hot lunch of noodles and set in to relax. Here is where we went wrong…
The camp site was shut so we thought we would wait for low tide (2pm) and packraft up as it came in. In our heads it sounded much more preferable than walking along the main road. So we relaxed and killed some time in the park. Meantime we got in touch with a trail angel who said for $20 we can pitch on her lawn and have a hot shower! We kept an eye on the water but not much was happening. All of a sudden the time was 3.45pm so we quickly got up and started getting the raft ready. Now the water had finally turned we could paddle up easier. I said to Rowan, is it too late, do we need to just stay here? He said let’s just do it. So 30min later we had shoved all our gear in and we headed off. The raft did really well and we only got stuck on a sand bar a few times. Once Rowan had to get out and move us. Now the problem is this estuary river is a long bloody river, the sun was setting faster than I could paddle. I had the worst pains in my hips and my back but we persevered. When we could see the motorway I got really excited. I wish I knew at the time that meant I was only half way haha. I am pretty sure that shower is the only thing that kept me going. When we hit the bridge I was so happy, we were aiming to get out at the kayak hire. It got to the point where we couldn’t easily see so we decided the next easy bank on the left we would hop out. Luckily for us it was the kayak hire. I hoped out first and sank into Puhoi mud knee deep, I lost both of my saddles trying to get out of the mud. I tried to get attention of the house to let them know what I was doing in their yard but I failed. Rowan pulled the boat up behind the hall on the grass. By now we were wet sodden and needed to unpack and repack of backpacks. I wish there was someone to take photos but it was really dark by then. I found my head torch which was already on so that keeps on going low and bright while we attempted to pack. Rowan’s torch also went out, bloody typical. We some how got all sorted mud everywhere and had a 1km walk ahead to do. As we set off there was a quiz party going on at the hall and the locals thought we had joined in with the dress up themes. Then they realised we were two idiots that look like swamp trampers. A relatively easy walk but wet and cold wasn’t fun. We made it to Pip’s House and quickly got the tent up, about 30min by the time I got enough mud off before going inside. That shower was amazing, I nearly didn’t get out. We made some kai and by the time we hit the hay it was 9pm and we were exhausted.
Google says we have done 16.5km polar steps says we have done 13km, I am not sure which one is right. It has been a rough day, we are definitely out of shape, but I am looking forward to doing it all again tomorrow. As we started we definitely had a lot of quick stops to readjust but then got our stride on. It was like going down memory lane for me, walks I had done hundreds of times as a kid. We had our first proper stop for 15min in Stanmore Bay where we ran into some locals who hike regularly. We stayed on the beaches as much as possible, but did do a lot of road walking too. As we hit Orewa we both were really hungry and needed a fuel stop, the stretch to Subway was slow and draining. On the beach was quite chilly and we took a good 45min break. By this time we are getting close to 3pm so we realise we won’t make it easily to Wenderholm. We push onto Hatfield Beach where you’re only allowed in self contained vehicles. So we pop into the bushes and we waited for dusk before setting up the tent. Now inside pretending we are allowed here haha.
I am finally feeling better, a bit of a runny nose and a cough like a seal but well enough to start. Rowan has caught my cold and is also on the mend, he doesn’t have it as bad. We are all packed minus some last minute items and we will set off in the morning. Not sure when I will have a chance to go back online and do an update. My grandparents are coming down to the wharf to see us leave for Stillwater, apparently they are also bringing an audience. Here is hoping we don’t fall in!
The plan was to be walking by Saturday but I have come down with a cold. I have done a couple of RAT tests to make sure it wasn’t covid. Already starting to feel better. Now the plan is to be heading off on Tuesday, we will hit the tides just perfectly to get us up the Weiti River over to Stillwater. I have an app called Polar Steps which is designed to follow your every step and map it out. Both of our phones will be on flight mode 99% of the time. I am looking forward to losing the reliance I have using it all the time. Off to have a hot shower, I’m not sure how many more real showers I will have in the next few weeks. It is the one thing that I don’t like the idea of, having a cold swim in some little ankle deep stream or freezing cold lake. For Rowan it is pooping in the woods and biting insects. We are looking forward to being comfortable with being uncomfortable. So please think of us while you enjoy your comfortable daily existance.
Currently sitting at the airport waiting for our delayed plane. The last week has given us a chance to spend 3 fun nights at our friends house in Nelson. Fossicking in the Aniseed River, Brightwater Bridge and Wairoa Gorge. Had a brief op shop tour home and a snowball fight in the Lewis Pass. Our awesome neighbours and close friends let us stay for 3 nights. I even had a chance to go to the monthly community meeting to say goodbye. The lovely Liz kindly dropped us off at the airport. I am excited and nervous all at the same time.
In the beginning we thought we could just use gear we already owned, then it all changed and we added a lot of extras. Hours of research later we have purchased majority of the items in this list. Our intention was to be between 7kg-10kg base weight, it was going well until we started adding toys. Because we are doing this for 6-12 months, making the journey as comfortable and as fun as possible became really important. In doing so we have added a lot that most wouldn’t. We reached our goal of base weight for normal gear but the toys mean we are more like 16kgs each!
On the Te Araroa FB Group Rowan came across a guy named Jeremy who had done a trail from north to south utilising a packraft and a carbon fibre scooter. This set in motion a complete change to our trip, instead of going light and compact we started adding a lot of extras. A lot of research later we came across Koaro Packrafts, we headed to Karamea to see what was possible. Rowan must have asked Sam a million questions, but by the end of the day we had a custom designed packraft ordered. Now a few kilos heavier we decided to add items to make our trip more enjoyable. Below is a list of what we are bringing with us.
Shelter/Sleeping Gear
Durston XMid 2p Tent
4x MSR Groundhog
2x MSR Groundhog mini
2x Sand/Snow Pegs
10x Assorted Pegs
Durston Groundsheet
MSR E-Wing Shelter
2x Nemo Switchback Foam Mats
Sea to Summit Etherlight Mat – K
Sea to Summit Mat – R
Sea to Summit Aeros Lightweight Pillow K
Klymit Pillow R
2x Enlightened Design Revolution Quilts
Sea to Summit Silk Liner – R
Macpac Silk Liner – K
2x Tyvek Quilt Bags
2x Emergency Bivy Bags
Cooking Gear
Soto Windmaster Gas Cooker
Flat Pack Titanium Wood Stove
MSR Alpine Frying Pan
Sea to Summit Pot
Titanium Pot 3L
Titanium Plate
Titanium Large Mug
Can Opener
MSR Spatular
Titanium Cutlery
Water Bottle
Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter
Safety
PLB
First Aid Kit
Ironwire (rope)
Wire Saw
Sea to Summit Multi Tool
Wallet – ID, Cash, Cards
Toiletries
Sea to Summit 10L Shower
Soap
Conditioner/Moisturiser
2x Toothbrushes
Floss + Interdental Brush
Sunscreen
Insect Repellent
Deodorant
Wash Towel
Dry Towel
Silicone Ear Plugs
2x Titanium Trowels
Toilet Paper
Shewee
Bush Cloth (fufu wiper)
Rowan Clothing
Julbo Explorer Sunglasses
Macpac Hat
Sea to Summit Net
Poncho
Macpac Down Vest
Kathmandu Merino Long Sleeve
Kathmandu Merino Dress Shirt
Macpac Merino Short Sleeve
Columbia Quick Dry Shirt
Lightweight Dungarees
Sparx Bamboo Underwear
2x Macpac Merino Underwear
2x Injinji Sock Liners
Icebreaker Outer Socks
Mons Royale Hooded Merino Top
Icebreaker Merino Track Pants
Macpac Merino Buff
Salomon Sandals
Salomon Element Boots
Possum Gloves
Manuka Staff
Fallkniven Bushcraft
Kate Clothing
Prescription Transition Glasses
Back Up Glasses
Op Shop Hat
Poncho
Macpac Puffer Jacket
Macpac Fleece Jumper
Icebreaker Merino Singlet
Kathmandu Quick Dry Shirt
Curve Leggings
Tradies Bamboo Shorties Underwear
Awwa Period Underwear
Sloggi Bra
2x Injinji Sock Liners
Icebreaker Outer Socks
Kathmandu Merino Long Sleeve
Icebreaker Merino Track Pants
Icebreaker Merino Buff
Beanie
Teva Sandals
Salomon Quest 4 Boots
Possum Gloves
Leki Walking Poles
Umbrella
Opinel Knife
Gathering
5 Piece Fishing Rod
Reel Spooled with Braid
Tackle Kit
Spearhead & Elastic
Diving Mask & Snorkel
Slingshot
Single Neoprene Gloves
Electronics
Samsung Note 9 – K
Apple 10 – R
2x Kindle Paperwhite
Anker Battery Pack 2800amp
Solar Panel
Nikon P1000
Tripod
Battery, SD Cards
Lensa Head Torch
Hand Torch
Battery Powered Pump/Lantern (packraft & mats)
Various Charging Cords
Samsung Double Charger
2x Jaybird Earbuds
Packraft
Custom Koaro Packraft
Koaro Inflatable Floor
Koaro Dry Bags
Custom Paddles (attach to walking poles)
Life Vest
To come is helmets & better life vests prior to white water rafting
It’s less than a week to go before our house settles, we will be out on the streets (tent & backpacks). It is starting to feel real now, I am camping on the floor in the entertainment room. Rowan had his last sleep on the couch, which gets collected today. I am without our automatic coffee machine that I relied on heavily. Soon our dining table will disappear and I will be writing blogs on the floor. Watching all my plants go has been strange, I am definitely missing the greenery in the house. We will clear out our wardrobe and ensuite this weekend and we will camp in the living area for the rest of our stay.
With a very minor chance that settlement delays we will book our way to the north after the lawyer confirms the sale. Our amazing neighbours have said we can stay as long as we need, they may regret that 😉 It will most likely mean we are traveling up to Nelson one last time before flying north.
Rowan and I are driving along the Lewis Pass heading to Nelson, “I had a thought. Instead of buying a camper or traveling overseas how about we walk the length of the country?” We had a brief discussion and he said “before we get deeper, just say yes or no.” Of course said yes, without thinking hard about it. Now that the decision was made, now what? How do we get to the point of putting our backpacks on and walking out the door?
At this time of our lives we were up shit creek without a paddle. Life had just been dumped on us (again) with the force of a mighty earthquake. In this pickle we were already discussing a “full out.” Out of Christchurch, out of business arrangements, out of responsibilities. This was no simple task, we had three 40 foot containers of antiques and collectibles that needed to be shipped to an auction house. A 3 car garage overflowing with more vintage goodies. Not to mention a 315sqm home with a maximalist approach to decor. Oh and don’t let me forget 2 acres consisting of 7 cows, boats, vehicles and sheds to clear. Prior to thinking about the house and begin the renovation we had all of the above too clear. I was at breaking point, we were at breaking point. Both of us on the verge of a full mental breakdown (I went numb). Somehow through this shit storm we managed to not break up, our communication is/was the strongest part of our relationship. We were both utterly miserable but neither of us was the cause. We made the decision to try our best for one another and knew it wouldn’t be easy.
It took a long time to get to the point where the renovating could begin. The day the house was finally photographed felt like a huge step forward. Our heads were full of doubt. Our home in Christchurch is located in the heart of a red zone. We had agents give us appraisals with estimates between $500k – $1.5m. There was no data for agents to go off, they could estimate it’s worth non as is and non red zone, but how much did the zoning effect the price? No one knew, there had been no open market sales in the suburb. We had purchased it in 2019 privately, our guess was we underpaid for it but wasn’t sure. Four weeks till the auction felt like it flew by but went incredibly slow all at the same time. Auction day came, it was the most nervous I have been in my adult life. Listening to the bidding was a surreal moment. Afterwards I was in a daze, it hadn’t had a chance to sink in. 6 months of battling through belongings and more things going wrong than right we had done it, we had sold our house. I don’t drink a lot but I did that afternoon, I was quite tipsy indeed. It took nearly a full week to really sink in, the week was booked up each day, family coming and going it hadn’t had a chance to register.
Our original settlement was to be two weeks after the auction, this was extended for the people who won and we had a 10 week settlement. We have been itching to go, but it has been good having the extra few weeks to get organised.
Kiwi Hobos 