Day 240 – Kawatiri to Lake Rotoroa

Woke up and realised what I thought was light showers in the night is actually the tree above us covering everything in sap. It is every where and quite sticky. Today we talked about getting to Murchison but our bodies are not up for the task. To the lake we go. It wasn’t too bad on the main highway 6, I was happy to get off it. The day had a very gradual up and a few bigger ups. My legs did not work very well. It took us 3 hours to get to the lake.

It was only 18km but my legs sure felt every metre. We got there nice and early and we set up the tent. Rowan made lunch with his net on. The sandflies are bad here.

Rowan attached our tail lights onto our helmets for better visibility. My front brake was a little off centre so it was rubbing so he fixed that too. We gave the chains a clean and some new oil. After all that we went for a swim. It was cold but not too cold. Quite pleasant once your body adapts. There were Tuna (eels) coming out to say hi. Rowan found a fresh water mussel/pipi

As the day comes to a close the water on the lake is calming. Maybe I can get some good photos in the morning.

Maps are not accurate when I am out of signal. But it gives you a rough idea

Day 239 – Tapawera to Kawatiri Junction

Wow, what a day! Well we didn’t realise the clocks changed. We knew it was coming soon. The other two tour bikers were slow moving too. We said our goodbyes on the track and to Catherine & Marley. We did not see them again lol.

Today we went up, up and up. 33km of up. More up than I wanted. Please no more up until I get strong legs. It was a big push and it took us forever. I was so exhausted when we were 2km from the top I just couldn’t do it. I just walked. I cried. I was way past it. Rowan actually set me off, he laughed at me. He keeps telling me he wasn’t laughing at me but I think he lies. He said he is laughing about how miserable I look but how stubborn I am to keep going.

When we got to the downhill it wasnt all down. Which made me mad. On the plus side Rowan had to walk a fair chunk too, so I dont feel teribble. We got there in the end. There is a spot Rowan and I know along the highway that you can camp. So we want to get there. Turns out the spot we are thinking of is past the turn off to Lake Rotoroa so we make it to Kawitiri instead. 45.2km!

Properly worn out now. It is nearly 5pm. A quick pitch, dinner, cold river swim and straight into bed.

Map not accurate

Day 238 – Rest Day

Last night was wet. Today is wet. We planned this rest day well. I don’t really fancy biking in the rain. We have a great big breakfast and drink a few cups of coffee

Rowan burnt the toast

Last night we met a couple from California. Brian and Janet are really nice. They have cycle toured in 40 different countries and they are on a tandem bike. Oooh I want one of those! I would love to let Rowan push me up the hills. Brian has diabetes and I talked to him about moving to NZ where he doesn’t need a mortgage to buy insulin. I have a feeling they don’t need to worry about the cost but still! I took full advantage of the washing machines and dryers and cleaned our clothes. At one point I hid in the tent. The rain only eased around 3pm. Rowan and I went to the 4square for a few road supplies. We didn’t bother with lunch because breakfast was huge.

Then in came Marley and Catherine, a couple from Perth. They looked all shiny on their new bikes and all their gear looking fresh. Hey Durston twinning

They have the ultra light version which is DCF. It is super light but not the most durable. We got chatting and no shit we are like twins (we are the fat version). They hiked the North Island and got to St Arnaud and Katherine hurt her ankle. They ended up in a hire car for a week hoping it would get better. When it didn’t they made the decision to add bicycles to finish the South Island. They started in Nelson. It is pretty hilarious how many things are the same. Katherine needs to be back mid June for work so I think they will have plenty of time once they have finished to do a tiki tour.

Before we knew it, the time was 8pm so we all head off to our homes. I joked to Marley that his tent is so transparent he can’t have sex with the lights on. “Why on earth would I want to see her.” Haha

Day 237 – Wakefield to Tapawera

What a slog! 35.5km!

The day started slow, I barely did one rotation on the bike and my muscles started burning. I am definitely not bike fit yet! The track is slightly up for half of the track today. We had a couple of e-bike wankers pass us with a smug look on their face as the zoom up the hills. Haha can you see I am very dark about these e-bikes! We got to the Wai-iti Domain where we were supposed to camp last night and I needed a small break. My legs feel on fire. We need water soon, but there is nowhere to get any here. Unless we want to filter it from the river. There is a bit of a mountain bike track from here to Belgrove. It was a bit of a peddle but I quite enjoyed it.

We go past a free range chicken farm. Rowan ends up scaring a stoat in the act of stealing an egg. The stoat drops it on the path. We decide to keep it and test how fresh it is!

Fresh as!

We get to Belgrove and ask the weighing station for some water. They let us fill up our bottles. Yay, plenty of water for the uphill. This track is part of the Great Taste Trail and is perfect for cycling. There are a few road crossings, but all in all, it is a pretty safe track. There is a steep bit I have to get off and walk. The skinny bike gates are not designed for tour bikers. You have to lift your bike over them. We get up around the corner and have a break and a snack. There is about 4.5km to Spooners Tunnel from here.

Now my legs are killing me, it takes a long time to get to the tunnel. I walk and bike the rest of the uphill. It doesn’t look uphill but it is a small incline. Obviously designed to trains to handle. When we get to the sign we chat to a guy who we chatted to earlier on his way back and a group of people who are on their way to Wakefield.

1.4km – 1km of up for us!
We went towards the light at the end of the tunnel

I didn’t make it all the way for the kilometre. I turned around to talk to Rowan and I thought he was being a creeper behind me and trying to scare me. Turns out he was at the start of the tunnel and couldn’t hear me. So I was just talking to myself.

From outside the tunnel, I had so much fun. Downhill baby! There was only a small amount of up and the rest was down, down, down to Kohatu. We did stop under the trees for lunch. When we reached Kohatu we treated ourselves to a milkshake each. And took a good 30min break.

From here to Tapawera was mostly downhill. The last few kms gave us a bit of a headwind.

We set up our tent at the campground. Free WiFi, showers, washing, drying. It is a great spot for weary riders. We headed to the 4square to get a few supplies for dinner and ended up going to the pub to get takeaways. Not bad burgers for $7.50

Day 236 – Maitai to Wakefield

We set off rather late, cold to the bone. I can feel the snow down south from here. I am really glad we are biking not hiking. Heaps of snowy photos coming in from Te Araroa trampers. We get moving before 10am, it will take us a few weeks to get the packing how we want it. Right now we are putting things where we can. We grab some breakfast in Nelson and do a couple of op shops. Then head to Tahunanui where we get two more shops in.

37km today

We push on to Richmond and make the decision to get to Wakefield. We do the op shops which gives us a good stretch. 14km to Wakefield, the pies there are my favourite. The last bit of the journey into Wakefield is hilly. I end up walking my bike up the hill. By this time it is 4pm and we really should have gotten some lunch earlier. Why do we keep making this mistake? Little and often is key. We hang out in Wakefield for an hour and give ourselves a good break. My body needs it.

There is 6km to go. We head off and we find a nice area by the river. Stuff it let’s not go to the freedom camping area full of people let’s go here. We get our gear off and have a wash in the river. Set up tent and eat some dinner. We will need to stop earlier soon with the days getting shorter. We just finish dinner as the sun disappears. Good timing

We have a tent failure. Our outer has some stress in the fabric. We will need to see if it is covered under warranty.

Day 233 – 235 – Maitai

Biked into town for a quick job, which takes hours lol. Rowan is jealous of my new comfy seat. He found one he loved but it is not durable. Heaps of reviews about the gel leaking out, so that is not helpful. After going to every bike shop, he finally settles on one. It does have a comfort guarantee so hopefully it works for him. He has the same problem I did, where you have bruised your bottom and even though it feels a bit better it is hard to tell. We hit the supermarket for some last minute supplies. Making sure we have enough so we don’t need to go anywhere tomorrow. I still get envious of every ebike rider.

Zero day. We have been hearing stags call at the camp and it is a rather strange noise. Today we are chilling for the most part but have a few things on the bikes to edit. We get out of the way of the cleaners, who are incredibly friendly and nice. They make you very welcome. The rain is on it’s way so I grab the washing and make sure our tent and gear is all safe. Our new friend Kate suggests we sneak into one of the empty cabins. Tempting, but instead we crawl into our little sanctuary and watch a house renovation programme. We don’t do TV much anymore so it was nice to do a bit of binge watching. We never got the bikes sorted, Rowan asks if I want another rest day. My muscles are still sore and my bruise from my topple of the bike is still purple. I don’t take much convincing. Let’s chill another day.

I tell you what, winter is on it’s way. Man it is uninspiring to get out of the warm tent. Going to need to adapt. Also, I’m not looking forward to shorter days. Today we get all the fiddly bits done that we wanted done the day before. It is warm in the sun but as soon as it goes away I am cold. It is really nice having another zero day. Rowan and I give all our extra oil and food bits to Kate so she can use them.

Day 232 – New Bike

Once we have had enough caffeine to fuel a race horse we get moving. I have no phone reception up the Maitai. Hopefully I get a new bike today. We have a look around at the market then continue to Evo. Annoyingly there is not much they can do till Monday. The guy is pretty sure that I can just have it, but has to wait for head office on Monday. Honestly, some of these people just need balls. Why doesn’t someone just say here you own it, take my money and say come back for it tomorrow when I have sorted it with logistics and management. The unknown is killing me.

No point waiting for a maybe, let’s find a bike. We head to Tahunanui to a guy who fixes up bikes and sells them on the market place. He has a bike I liked but he wants $550. For a hundred more I get a new bike and warranty. No thanks. Also he reckoned he could fix my bike by just replacing the chain. Which I now know from speaking to 3 different people is not possible. So this bike is probably not well serviced and he only half knows what he is doing. We say we will let him know. Cycle back to the beach and find some shade.

While there we found the bike we had found on trademe sold. But the guy had listed a second bike! A Liv (Giant for women), just older. Well we didn’t muck around I tried to call him then pressed the buy now. He called back with his address, well here we come!

It is on the way to Picton and there is a really horrid steep windy hill to climb to his place. The last part toom some huffing and puffing. I was so sweaty when we reached the top. Mike is a really nice guy, daughters bike that she hasn’t really used since they moved to NZ. I am not surprised living on a hill like this! I take it for a test run, it feels really good. $250 take my money. We spend the next 30min moving all my gear from my bike to the new bike. Kelvin will come pick up the old bike and sell it for me.

Problem finally solved, but now let’s quickly get into town and see if it needs work! We make it 10min before closing and the guy quickly replaces my chain but the cogs are good. Wahoo! We will take in to rider18 tomorrow and get it properly looked at. I now have hydraulic brakes and bigger wheels 27.5″ riding is feeling a lot different!

Legs are sore, 30km done today. I need a zero day soon!

Day 231 – Delayed

We fix a problem and gain a problem.

Our goal today is rather simple, get me some shoes, buy a few other bits, job done. Torpedo7 emails us to let us know they found the orange drybag we wanted. So we go in to swap it first. We ask the manager if my chain is okay and she tells is to come to the workshop next door. The guy tells us I need a new chain and the two cogs need replacing too! It can’t be don’t till Tuesday parts need to be ordered in etc. Oh crap. Oh and it will cost around $300. So we head to Evo cycles and get another opinion. Same thing, can’t do it till next week. We gain a third opinion, same thing. Now we are sure it is a problem. We sit in a park wondering what to do, it honestly isn’t worth spending that much money on it. Back at Evo talk to us about a new bike but a cheap bike. I fall in love with this bike

It is very easy to ride. It feels really comfortable. It’s like going from an old noisy car to a new sleek modern car. It is on clearance as it is last years model. So we talk ourselves into it, problem solved. Go to hand over the money and no they can’t sell it to me. Even though it is right in front of me some bugger purchased one in the Auckland store and is getting this one shipped to them on Monday. Well I get that they want them off the shop floor now but the Giant distributor is in Auckland. It makes no sense to send this one, then send one from Auckland. They try to call to make sure it can be reversed. By this time it is closing time and we will have to wait for tomorrow. So I get back on my clunky bike and we head to Rebel Sport. Shoes, I find a pair of sketchers on special, easy job done.

We head back up the Maitai, my legs are sore but promise of a cold beer keeps them going.

Day 230 – Maitai

Feeling quite lethargic and a fuzzy brain we have a slow start. The day doesn’t improve and we are both zombie’s. I realise this is the first time since a couple of days in Picton we are actually alone, no one else around us. I have actually missed it being just the two of us.

We slogged up the hill to Kevin’s. I wasn’t sure my legs would make it as the first thing on a bike. But I some how manage it. We don’t have as much stuff as I thought we may have. Kelvin is happy to post my backpack and other hiking gear that we leave behind. Very handy indeed. I put our clothes in a quick wash, then have a cup of tea before saying goodbye.

We get some lunch in town and head to a bike shop. Kevin’s Bike shop is very helpful he helps me choose a better seat for my butt! He fixed one of Rowan’s chains and brake lines that had perished. While he was fixing our bikes we walked to Kathmandu. I had ordered shoes I had wanted for a long time. Argh they don’t fit my wide feet. We try on a whole heap more but nothing works. Annoyingly back to the drawing board. I don’t really want to bike in sandals forever. We pop into Macpac for a fork because yes! I have lost Rowan’s fork again. I really can’t seem to keep them.

The bikes are fixed up. I have a new saddle, hopefully my butt loves it.

Day 229 – Back to Nelson

The first ferry is at 10am. Plenty of time to get up and going for the day. We wait at the wharf for a few minutes, today is going to be a lot more pleasant than last time. We stop at the beach on the otherside and enjoy the view. I have icecream I need to eat before it melts. We don’t stay long before heading to Rough Island. My legs struggle on a bit of an uphill but at least I can stop as often as I need to now. I have a lot more fun this time and it doesn’t feel as hard. We are heading to Richmond as there is a few shops we want to go to. We saw a rubber horn in the Red Cross, which will be handy for me if Rowan gets far ahead and I need to signal him. We are keeping an eye out for a backpack to complete our packing. No luck, but we do get a handlebar bag from kmart for $12.

Fueled by Subway, we head off to Tahunanui tip shop looking for a bracket that fits my front torch. This time we take the old train route inland rather than along the water. There is still a bit of a head wind so we don’t win both ways. When we stop i get off funny and end up falling off and rolling down the hill. I pushed myself too hard and my legs were jelly. I didnt get hurt, lots of padding an a soft landing. We get to the Tahunanui beach for a break before heading into Nelson Town to Torpedo7 and Rider18. We will stay in town at the top10 tonight.

We get some new panniers for Rowan at Rider18 and we end up getting a drybag from Torpedo7 that doubles as a backpack (not a very comfortable one). I don’t have the energy to get the rest of our stuff from Kevin’s tonight so we go to the campground and we will get it in the morning.