We have doubled our best day and it was not easy! We set off at 9am and it took us 1.5hr to get 31km to a lookout. We did really good timing in the morning.
When we got to Lyell, it got a bit harder from there. But it was a push for me from Inagahua. I slowed right down for the last 26km, where we joined back on the highway.
From there I got slower and slower. I added music in one ear and skittles. It worked for 10km but the last 15km was horrid. I ended up in tears lying on the side of the road telling Rowan to carry me the rest of the way. From then on Rowan stayed close behind me and we made it into Reefton at 6.30pm exhausted.
Our bike lights last 5 hours, we charged them up again while on a less busy road. We also turned our headlights on. Once the sun went behind the mountains
In the dark we quickly pitched our tent, I did the inner part while Rowan cooked dinner. After spaghetti I had a hot shower. The first hot shower since Tapawera. I stretched my legs, washed up and went to bed. What a day!
Today is Rowan’s Birthday 37! We are not doing anything for it because we are getting somewhere nice and joining our birthdays together. We thought possibly Reefton but it is Easter Weekend, of course everything is booked out. We will aim for something when we hit Hokitika.
The weather is gross, wet foggy and miserable. We wait to see if it clears and when it doesn’t decide we need to stay. Our next part is on roads and we both prefer our safety over getting more miles done.
This is how we will wash our clothes from now
At 2pm it started to clear up. We headed in to the centre for some lunch and to post a package to ourselves. Our good deed for the day; I found a fork with someone’s phone number on it. I texted the number and got their address to post it. Unfortunately it couldn’t fit in a normal envelope so it ended up being in a bag that is 5x more valuable than the fork itself. But I am sure they will appreciate it.
After our packages we couldn’t make our minds up on food it had rained again since we came out. The food truck bakery was out of food so we headed to the tearooms. It was a very sad pie and we won’t eat there again. Bad choice.
When we got back, we were warm from cycling and the weather was clear again so we took the opportunity to skinny dip in the Buller.
While in town we got some ingredients for Rowan to make burgers. Yes, I still make him cook on his birthday, haha. The burgers were much better than lunch. We had an early dinner and night. Tomorrow we are seeing how far we can push ourselves, we need the energy.
Today we are taking a rest. My muscles are thanking me for it. I got quite a sore shoulder on my right side. I believe from extending it and pushing it up hill yesterday. I am making sure we stretch in the evening which really seems to help the tired muscles. A naughty Weka kept jumping up and pulling out my tassels for fun. One side looks a lot sadder than the other.
We headed into town for a little op shop and why not bike the kilometre or so in. I found a scarf that will work as a sarong. I have been jealous of Rowan’s. I am not worried about flashing people if they really want to look they should take a photo. But there has been a few times you feel like a bunch of seedy men are watching in anticipation. I am on the look out for a new merino long-sleeved top. My one is more holey than righteous as Nana would say.
I wanted to visit the museum. Which is well worth the time to visit. There is lots to see and I was happy to give a donation to help maintain the items and the buildings. We normally just pass through Murchison, so it was nice seeing the history. We headed back to the campground to have lunch and relax for the rest of the day.
Lake Rotoroa is beautiful. However I won’t miss the sandflies. I got up pre dawn and it wasn’t too cold. But then it got colder, I hate it when that happens. Rowan and I both had a crap sleep. I let him sleep a bit longer. We had so many stags calling in the night and all sorts of other wildlife keeping us up. Then the bloody German couple that arrived around 7pm decided at 12.15am to putch their tent. So annoying.
Today we have a 3.4km up and up it was. We walked 98% of it. Once we got to the top we knew it would be a fair day. After a quick snack we headed downhill.
We crossed a few ford’s and got wet feet. It was quite cold going down, we needed a stop in the sunshine to thaw out. Trending down for the next 20km. It was a rather fun day. The last 5km of the day was fairly flat along the main highway to Murchison.
34.3km day
Unfortunately my map doesn’t work so we’ll offline but it gives you the gist of it. We went past the campground and straight into town. I got an incecream and some fries! Then we shopped at the 4square for dinner. Before turning around and heading back to the Riverside campground. We set up and jumped into the river for a swim. I got properly wet and washed my hair. We ended up in the river for a good 10min. It was refreshingly cold.
Woke up and realised what I thought was light showers in the night is actually the tree above us covering everything in sap. It is every where and quite sticky. Today we talked about getting to Murchison but our bodies are not up for the task. To the lake we go. It wasn’t too bad on the main highway 6, I was happy to get off it. The day had a very gradual up and a few bigger ups. My legs did not work very well. It took us 3 hours to get to the lake.
It was only 18km but my legs sure felt every metre. We got there nice and early and we set up the tent. Rowan made lunch with his net on. The sandflies are bad here.
Rowan attached our tail lights onto our helmets for better visibility. My front brake was a little off centre so it was rubbing so he fixed that too. We gave the chains a clean and some new oil. After all that we went for a swim. It was cold but not too cold. Quite pleasant once your body adapts. There were Tuna (eels) coming out to say hi. Rowan found a fresh water mussel/pipi
As the day comes to a close the water on the lake is calming. Maybe I can get some good photos in the morning.
Maps are not accurate when I am out of signal. But it gives you a rough idea
Wow, what a day! Well we didn’t realise the clocks changed. We knew it was coming soon. The other two tour bikers were slow moving too. We said our goodbyes on the track and to Catherine & Marley. We did not see them again lol.
Today we went up, up and up. 33km of up. More up than I wanted. Please no more up until I get strong legs. It was a big push and it took us forever. I was so exhausted when we were 2km from the top I just couldn’t do it. I just walked. I cried. I was way past it. Rowan actually set me off, he laughed at me. He keeps telling me he wasn’t laughing at me but I think he lies. He said he is laughing about how miserable I look but how stubborn I am to keep going.
When we got to the downhill it wasnt all down. Which made me mad. On the plus side Rowan had to walk a fair chunk too, so I dont feel teribble. We got there in the end. There is a spot Rowan and I know along the highway that you can camp. So we want to get there. Turns out the spot we are thinking of is past the turn off to Lake Rotoroa so we make it to Kawitiri instead. 45.2km!
Properly worn out now. It is nearly 5pm. A quick pitch, dinner, cold river swim and straight into bed.
Last night was wet. Today is wet. We planned this rest day well. I don’t really fancy biking in the rain. We have a great big breakfast and drink a few cups of coffee
Rowan burnt the toast
Last night we met a couple from California. Brian and Janet are really nice. They have cycle toured in 40 different countries and they are on a tandem bike. Oooh I want one of those! I would love to let Rowan push me up the hills. Brian has diabetes and I talked to him about moving to NZ where he doesn’t need a mortgage to buy insulin. I have a feeling they don’t need to worry about the cost but still! I took full advantage of the washing machines and dryers and cleaned our clothes. At one point I hid in the tent. The rain only eased around 3pm. Rowan and I went to the 4square for a few road supplies. We didn’t bother with lunch because breakfast was huge.
Then in came Marley and Catherine, a couple from Perth. They looked all shiny on their new bikes and all their gear looking fresh. Hey Durston twinning
They have the ultra light version which is DCF. It is super light but not the most durable. We got chatting and no shit we are like twins (we are the fat version). They hiked the North Island and got to St Arnaud and Katherine hurt her ankle. They ended up in a hire car for a week hoping it would get better. When it didn’t they made the decision to add bicycles to finish the South Island. They started in Nelson. It is pretty hilarious how many things are the same. Katherine needs to be back mid June for work so I think they will have plenty of time once they have finished to do a tiki tour.
Before we knew it, the time was 8pm so we all head off to our homes. I joked to Marley that his tent is so transparent he can’t have sex with the lights on. “Why on earth would I want to see her.” Haha
The day started slow, I barely did one rotation on the bike and my muscles started burning. I am definitely not bike fit yet! The track is slightly up for half of the track today. We had a couple of e-bike wankers pass us with a smug look on their face as the zoom up the hills. Haha can you see I am very dark about these e-bikes! We got to the Wai-iti Domain where we were supposed to camp last night and I needed a small break. My legs feel on fire. We need water soon, but there is nowhere to get any here. Unless we want to filter it from the river. There is a bit of a mountain bike track from here to Belgrove. It was a bit of a peddle but I quite enjoyed it.
We go past a free range chicken farm. Rowan ends up scaring a stoat in the act of stealing an egg. The stoat drops it on the path. We decide to keep it and test how fresh it is!
Fresh as!
We get to Belgrove and ask the weighing station for some water. They let us fill up our bottles. Yay, plenty of water for the uphill. This track is part of the Great Taste Trail and is perfect for cycling. There are a few road crossings, but all in all, it is a pretty safe track. There is a steep bit I have to get off and walk. The skinny bike gates are not designed for tour bikers. You have to lift your bike over them. We get up around the corner and have a break and a snack. There is about 4.5km to Spooners Tunnel from here.
Now my legs are killing me, it takes a long time to get to the tunnel. I walk and bike the rest of the uphill. It doesn’t look uphill but it is a small incline. Obviously designed to trains to handle. When we get to the sign we chat to a guy who we chatted to earlier on his way back and a group of people who are on their way to Wakefield.
1.4km – 1km of up for us!We went towards the light at the end of the tunnel
I didn’t make it all the way for the kilometre. I turned around to talk to Rowan and I thought he was being a creeper behind me and trying to scare me. Turns out he was at the start of the tunnel and couldn’t hear me. So I was just talking to myself.
From outside the tunnel, I had so much fun. Downhill baby! There was only a small amount of up and the rest was down, down, down to Kohatu. We did stop under the trees for lunch. When we reached Kohatu we treated ourselves to a milkshake each. And took a good 30min break.
From here to Tapawera was mostly downhill. The last few kms gave us a bit of a headwind.
We set up our tent at the campground. Free WiFi, showers, washing, drying. It is a great spot for weary riders. We headed to the 4square to get a few supplies for dinner and ended up going to the pub to get takeaways. Not bad burgers for $7.50
We set off rather late, cold to the bone. I can feel the snow down south from here. I am really glad we are biking not hiking. Heaps of snowy photos coming in from Te Araroa trampers. We get moving before 10am, it will take us a few weeks to get the packing how we want it. Right now we are putting things where we can. We grab some breakfast in Nelson and do a couple of op shops. Then head to Tahunanui where we get two more shops in.
37km today
We push on to Richmond and make the decision to get to Wakefield. We do the op shops which gives us a good stretch. 14km to Wakefield, the pies there are my favourite. The last bit of the journey into Wakefield is hilly. I end up walking my bike up the hill. By this time it is 4pm and we really should have gotten some lunch earlier. Why do we keep making this mistake? Little and often is key. We hang out in Wakefield for an hour and give ourselves a good break. My body needs it.
There is 6km to go. We head off and we find a nice area by the river. Stuff it let’s not go to the freedom camping area full of people let’s go here. We get our gear off and have a wash in the river. Set up tent and eat some dinner. We will need to stop earlier soon with the days getting shorter. We just finish dinner as the sun disappears. Good timing
We have a tent failure. Our outer has some stress in the fabric. We will need to see if it is covered under warranty.
Biked into town for a quick job, which takes hours lol. Rowan is jealous of my new comfy seat. He found one he loved but it is not durable. Heaps of reviews about the gel leaking out, so that is not helpful. After going to every bike shop, he finally settles on one. It does have a comfort guarantee so hopefully it works for him. He has the same problem I did, where you have bruised your bottom and even though it feels a bit better it is hard to tell. We hit the supermarket for some last minute supplies. Making sure we have enough so we don’t need to go anywhere tomorrow. I still get envious of every ebike rider.
Zero day. We have been hearing stags call at the camp and it is a rather strange noise. Today we are chilling for the most part but have a few things on the bikes to edit. We get out of the way of the cleaners, who are incredibly friendly and nice. They make you very welcome. The rain is on it’s way so I grab the washing and make sure our tent and gear is all safe. Our new friend Kate suggests we sneak into one of the empty cabins. Tempting, but instead we crawl into our little sanctuary and watch a house renovation programme. We don’t do TV much anymore so it was nice to do a bit of binge watching. We never got the bikes sorted, Rowan asks if I want another rest day. My muscles are still sore and my bruise from my topple of the bike is still purple. I don’t take much convincing. Let’s chill another day.
I tell you what, winter is on it’s way. Man it is uninspiring to get out of the warm tent. Going to need to adapt. Also, I’m not looking forward to shorter days. Today we get all the fiddly bits done that we wanted done the day before. It is warm in the sun but as soon as it goes away I am cold. It is really nice having another zero day. Rowan and I give all our extra oil and food bits to Kate so she can use them.
Kiwi Hobos 